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its my opinion and i'm sure many others on this forum would agree with me. lack of experience on the road is the main reasons accidents occur, especially in young males 17-25. even 20k for a first car imo is expensive for a first car. i have always said to mates when pickin their first cars go...

your kidding right. my car is my idol, i'd take it over anything. i just think its a bit silly to spend $50+ on a first car.

thats like comparing a cruise liner to a speedboat. put a xr6t and an evo on the track and see if you still think that... an evo is an enthusiast's car. xr6t is just a bogan aussie "sports sedan". 0-100 means sweet f.a.

cant wait to see the tears stream down your face when you first thwack it :rofl:

whoever hacked that did a pretty good job. never liked honda's (bar the s2000 and nsx). so doesnt bother me :D

some tyres can perform the same in the wet as in the try (to a certain extent) as the tread pattern allows for fast water ejection. anything > $200 per tyre will handle excellent, treadwear to be pretty good and noise level shouldnt be too bad depending on the tread pattern once again. the...

no offence mate the tyres are dogshit. thats why falken has scrapped them from the range and replaced them with the 329's. in the wet you'd better off walking.

i've got michelin pilot preceda 225/45/17's. excellent tyre. they are quiet, great performance and good treadwear. if you do a bit of spirited driving every now and then steer clear from the cheaper tyres! you pay for what you get! nankang, falken 326's, cheap hankook's and cheaper varients of...

if its a jdm import a lot of them had limiters at around 180-200k's.

those supras are such a nice body shape! on topic: steer clear from a jeep, all it is going to do is cost you money, not to mention how unsafe they are.

i find the nrma info not that accurate... you better off just googling it, something always comes up. redbook is spot on for power figures.

i'm pretty sure the 190kw version is the sportivo. 3.5litre supercharged v6 and the base models were around the 140kw mark. remember car manufacturers are also thinking about the fuel crisis at the moment.. seriously who wants a petrol eater of a car? yes there are some enthusiasts but they are...

thats so expensive! $20 to do it yourself... not even!

euro and liberty are both very nice cars... the euro does have more guts. its unfortunate that they put the 2.0 in the liberty as its fairly gutless! the 2.5 and 3.0 versions are much nicer to drive.

you do know the 190kw sportivo version is supercharged. that means very good response and it will have plenty of torque. stop critisizing it because it doesnt have the 250kws like the aussie tank's do. i'm sure it will perform well up there with them.

they look MUCH nicer in the flesh... also the e90 coupe (new m3) spy shots look hot!

how bout you dont stereotype and be a dickhead? if you must know my car was in a big accident, i was hurt and so were the passengers. the car has received over $9k in repairs and the only way we could have fixed it was to buy a half cut and use the whole front end, no i could not use the turbo...

as i said before, car audio is one of the things where you really do pay for what you get. that rating on the sub 1000W is PMPO power, not actual power its putting out. the monobloc reading however probably is actual power. most subs that are rated @ 1000W are approx 300-400rms... read the box...

i severly doubt it will stuff anything up, you planning on getting installed professionally? i doubt this voids your warranty aswell. with that 2 channel amp idea, if it is possible (not tooo sure on that one) there will be piss all power for the sub. you want around 300wrms for a decent punch.

jaycar 2x150 amp, bridged does 450wrms, put that up with a decent 10/12 inch sub. should come around $400/$450. dont settle for less, its a waste of money getting cheap products you can really notice the difference. set aside some more money for a decent front speaker/amp combo.