Decent car under 6k? (1 Viewer)

[bassqueen16]

lol i can imagine it would tho...

 

[7th Sign]

http://carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!cs_content.private_vehicle?vehicle_id=2479625&current_rec=59&used_rec=14&total_rec=75&sort_type=&total_rec=75&sort_type=&make_id=7&model_id=145&state_id=-1&search_distance=25

theirs one just came up on the 30th

about 2 grand below the RRP for this kind lil damage but and its in vic..

good buy but

 

[Jiga]

Im lookin for a car under 6K to, its prity difficult for me though because I want at least Power Steering, Air Conditioning and an auto.... all of which are in high demand :mad1:

I suggest go around to some dealerships first, I looked straight away online at private cars but you dont really have any idea for what to look at and what the car is worth, a good couple of hours checkin out dealerships, getting some test drives etc will give you a better idea of what the car might be worth (obviously take off like $1000 for private sale) and what to look out for in regards to the engine etc.

Also do abit of research, alot of car sites have research functions so you can get an idea of whether the car is priced reasonably or even if it has to many kms for its age. Once you find a car, go to the NRMA website and check their reviews (they have new car reviews dated back till early 90's and used car reviews) and if you are getting a private sale especially get an NRMA inspection.

As for hagling, it depends on the salesperson. Some dealers are willing to give nothing even for a car in poor condition, others are quick to give $500 off but then its an uphill battle. Id suggest maybe take someone else with you who will be less emotionally attached to a car immeditaely, I took my mum for eg who is a very good hagler and Ive managed to get $1000 off a car that I would say was already reasonably priced..... it also had a decent warranty attached. If I had gone myself I would have been content with the original price and cost myself

 

[petar13]

If you want to haggle successfully, ask the owner/dealer for permission to take the car to a registered mechanic for that marque (i.e. Holden/Mitsubishi/Ford/etc certified mechanic). They can give you an evaluation on how many things need to be fixed/replaced/changed in the near future. If that amounts to something like 1-2k you have a very strong base for haggling.

 

[bassqueen16]

If you want to haggle successfully, ask the owner/dealer for permission to take the car to a registered mechanic for that marque (i.e. Holden/Mitsubishi/Ford/etc certified mechanic). They can give you an evaluation on how many things need to be fixed/replaced/changed in the near future. If that amounts to something like 1-2k you have a very strong base for haggling.

ooh thats really smart, lol i just sounded like a bimbo eh... but thats actually really good, also just asking them might make them put the price down lol

 

[Jiga]

If you want to haggle successfully, ask the owner/dealer for permission to take the car to a registered mechanic for that marque (i.e. Holden/Mitsubishi/Ford/etc certified mechanic). They can give you an evaluation on how many things need to be fixed/replaced/changed in the near future. If that amounts to something like 1-2k you have a very strong base for haggling.

But if the things that need to be changed cost $1000, and you haggle it down $1000...... you essentially aernt gaining anything.

Also, if you were referring to mechanical repairs, it would be very risky to buy a car with problems and then end up paying loads to fix them because the guy who evaluated the problems underestimated them.

I personally try to use 'cosmetic' problems as leverage, and alsostuff like the rego (if its less than 6 months, $500 off thanks - this may sound hypocritical after my first statement because rego would cost $600+, but its a yearly expense unlike mechanical repairs and getting $500 off with 3 months rego is better than say 6 months rego with no money off isnt it). Also, paying cash can also get the price down alittle.

This is partially why I use an NRMA inspection, abit expensive at $200 for members, but they give you a total report about the ENTIRE car..... its the perfect tool for haggling. In any case though, alot of dealers easily go down by $500, its just trying to get the price down after this that needs a report of some sought highlighting the cars 'defects'

 

[petar13]

Usually the stuff that might end up costing you $1000 (in repairs, maintenance, etc) in the near future would be spread out over 1-2 years time. It is much easier to pay that way, then to give the money upfront. And anyway, once you have the car, you can even stop driving it for a couple of weeks till you get all the money.

By mechanical I meant
- Badly working airconditioner (doesn't affect driveability)
- Worn CV Joints (annoying noises, but the car can keep driving)
- Minor oil leaks (again, as long as it is minor - no short term problem there)
- Maybe even minor rusting on the car body (better off avoiding that, though)
- Worn out muffler (a bit louder than normal, but nothing wrong with driving)
- Suspension bushings, dampers (again, the car can be driven with few problems)

By maintenance
- Old, balding tyres
- Perhaps a timing belt change
- Disk brakes, pads, etc.

But there's no point me listing that here. For $100-$150 a mechanic can give you a full run down of what needs to be done in the next 1-2 years, and the corresponding price. As you are buying a car for 6k, be prepared for quite a high maintenance/repair price tag, but don't be intimidated - as this is a cost that would be spread over a longer period of time. G'luck.

 

[Jiga]

Yeah true.

Well, Ive found my car in the past day or so, a Toyota Vienta 1993 model. Their meant to be prity reliable, they have a reasonable engine, not TO heavy on the fuel, have all the basic features you want (a/c, central locking, power steering, alarm etc) and I got it for $5500 with I think its prity good.....from my research they are worth around $6000-$7000 at least. It also only has only 132,000kms on it.... which kinda worries me cos its so cheap for that many kms but the warranty does give some piece of mind, and I did go through it with a fine tooth comb! TThe warranty is for 3 years as well and unlike alot of dealers I went to in the past it covers alot of parts, the only draw back is its limited per part to like $1500 worth max, but thats still prity good, if the transmission goes for eg that would be a major dent into the cost.

 

[VanCarBus]

just go for an excel, guaranteed low budget, powerful small cars.

http://www.drive.com.au/used_cars/hyundai/excel/sydney/detail.aspx?id=2592938&pg=1&pp=18&d=0&nv=1

$4500
excel 1996, auto
120000kms

piss easy to drive

 

[7th Sign]

get that mx6 I said, very good cars pretty cheap insurance aswell only liek 700 a year. not liek 5000 for a skyline. Good cruiser, bit of luxary and top interior look very nice. Car has a sext shape, dont get a excel I have driven one they feel like shit and their interior sucks and their almost as common as a commonwhore .

 

[bowman]

my commodore will fuck ur mazda up

 

[7th Sign]

hahahha unless its a v8 commo youve got no chance

 

[bowman]

what u got mazda MX6?

 

[DaddyK]

lol, it doesn't matter what it is, what matters is that its an automatic.

 

[Mr Will]

lol, it doesn't matter what it is, what matters is that its an automatic.

or....not. seremify unless you've got a mazda mps, or a turbo tx5, then id say youre talking out your ass

 

[alexxxz]

in re: to the OP's original question.. get a corolla, you wont get a better car for the money, either an AE92/3 or the later seca model which was mid 90's.. afaik.