India
Cotton and silk cloth, hand woven in all the different regions of India and often embroidered, or metal thread work, beads and even jewels are fundamental to everyday life in India. It is through the cut, colour, texture and brilliance of their garments that Indians establish their exact position in a society so diverse and fragmented by religion, ethnicity and caste. textiles production and design in India is unique. The predominant fibre are cotton and silk, decorated. Some key points are;
Traditional
Cottage based labour intensive
Textile in India carry meaning and messages
Each region has a distinctive style through the use of colour, embroider and decoration.
India is the seventh largest country in the world
India is an ancient culture with the traditional textile industry still being very important with exported goods sent all around the world.
Textiles have traditionally been an important part of the dowry of a bride
Wide range of climatic conditions.
The Islamic law forbids designs on clothing of any living creature so geometric designs are used instead. As there is an air of informality when praying in the temples dress is not formal just modest.
Indian people love colours which have different meanings and are usually used for protection against spirits, or beauty.
1) Orange - earth
2) Yellow - spring colour traditionally worn by Buddhist monks
3) Blue- the colour of God Krishna, associated with water
4) Green - holy colour of Hindu
5) Red- Traditional colour of marriage. Considered to be happy.
6) Circle- represents the sun, wheel or unity
FACTORS THAT INFLUENCE THE PRODUCTION AND NATURE OF TEXTILES
Geographic location
Climate conditions determine the type and quality of natural fibres grown. Land forms may isolate a culture from outside influences allowing for unique styles.
E.g Western dress is worn almost exclusively in cities and southern regions. The textile industry is the most important industry in India.
Available resources
Resources available within the culture, the fibre, yarn, fabrics, dyes, knowledge and skills of the textile workers.
E.g India trades large exports of raw materials
Tradition/customs
Tradition is a collective group of beliefs, customs and practices which a culture hands down over generations. In many cultures textiles is used in important events and ceremonies and is integral part of communicating beliefs and social messages.
E.g. Hindu lifestyle is governed by ancient beliefs and traditions. Dress and social behavior is prescribed by ancient law.
Technological development
The development of technology within a culture determines the quality, quantity and design of the textiles and textile products.
This can mean an increase in the availability of resources for the craftsperson
Improved production rates of the textiles, less expensive
Improved quality
Introduction of new materials, replacing traditional methods.
Conversely, technological development resulting in mass production can mean the decline in hand crafted textiles and loss of traditional textile skills. Textile production becomes more standardized and hand made items more appreciated and rare.
E.g. Traditional textiles industry is a hand process using intricate methods to produce textiles and clothing. Today textile technology has developed with India now producing products of high quality, with traditional methods. India has a cottage industry where clothing is manufactured by people in their homes. The government realises hand skills are being lost therefore they encourage traditional skills.
Religious practices
Variations in religious beliefs and practices between culture. Particular ceremonies may require the use of a specific type of cloth, adornment or clothing. In some culture wearing a particular design or colour may be taboo, forbidden.
E.g The influences of religion in India is strong and governs daily life including the way people dress, the food they eat, marriage and occupation. The major religions are Hindu, Muslin, Christian and Sikh
Workers skills and status
Skills are learned at an early age and passed onto the next generation. These skills and knowledge determine the nature and quality of the textile design
E.g The production of textiles used to be influenced by caste system, the workers were employed in specific areas of production dictated by the caste to which they belonged. Some industries were of higher status than others.
Communication
Isolated culture may have traditional textiles unchanged over long periods of time, Yet the increased speed of communication has exposed people to a variety of influences and new ideas.
E.g. Traditionally each caste passes on particular garment styles, designs, colours, techniques of dyeing, printing and embellishing from generation to next. Isolation and absence of industrialization has helped retain traditional styles reflecting cultural identity. Popular design or motif is the Paisley or buta ,meaning flower. It looks similar to a pear of teardrop. The motif was originally created by stamping the dye onto the cloth with the side of the fist.
NORTH WEST INDIA
Renowned for their wealth of traditional textiles
Predominately arid regions, has monsoon rains
Has slow moving river ideals for washing textiles after dying
People in these areas know for the vibrant colours and rich embroider of clothes, animal trappings. Most of their fabrics are hand block or screen printed.
17th Century Gujarat important commercial embroidery.
Marriage costume, wall hangings, quilts, cradle clothes are embroidered, appliques, decorated with beadwork and embellishment with mirrors, sequins, buttons and shells.
Isolation has meant this region has retained cultural identity.
Religious influences such as Hindu dress is strongly linked to caste system.
Textiles have traditionally been part of Dowry of a bride. She has intricate embroidered and appliqued textile items. The bride and groom have wedding costumes.
Distinctive embroidery is worn to identify caste, with each caste having prescribed colours, materials and stitched and these have remained unchanged for generations. Traditionally each caste passes on particular garment style, design, colours, technique of dyeing, printing and embellishing.
TEXTILE ART FORMS
Torans - door hangings made from cotton and embroidered with silk thread, small mirrors and chain stitch. Torans feature designs from nature and mythology.
Shawl - Made in Kashmir, made from fleece of mountain goat. The yarn is spun and woven then interlaced to form patterns. It is a slow intricate process which is labour intensive and expensive. The shawls have been copied in contemporary society (France and England) and are now made from merino wool and decorated with chain stitches.
Saris- all purpose garment that is both comfortable and elegant
TEXTILE TECHNIQUES
Block Printing - Large percentage of Indian textiles are block printed. Today block printing has found a niche market in rural communities. Ajarakh - geometric design printed on both sides of cloth in indigo blue.
Shisha -or embroidery with mirrors is a classic Indian textile art form
Beadwork - embellishment introduced from Africa. Beads were used as a replacement for embroidery. Patterns for beading were intricate incorporating motifs from nature and reds, oranges and greens. The beading is done from the corner of the design.
Applique - known as katab originated from Europe. Applique was used by the landlord, farming and merchant castes. The landlord designs were predominantly dramatic animals and human figure. The merchants did stylized birds and elephants in red and whites.
Mochi embroidery- Embroidery carried out on satin fabric with fine silk thread using chain stitch formed with an ari. The silk is imported from Europe or China. This embroidery is used on skirt panels, saris, torans. The motifs for embroidery are stylized flowers.
Tie dying - Produced by men (who dye the fabric) and women (who tie the cloth at home). The fabric is thin cotton or silk pinched up and tied in small circular pattern and dyed.
CONTEMPORARY DESIGN INFLUENCES
Today in India vast quantities of embroidery work in homes has gone, except in rural areas. Now young women spend their time getting educated rather than doing embroidery like their grandmothers. Modern technology and the availability of western clothes has taken place over traditional work. Decline in embroidery done in homes due to changes in beliefs and caste systems. Foreign trade in textiles has experienced changes. Europe has influences Indian shawls. The effects of technology on hand work industry has caused a decline. Yet the government encourages to develop and improve the industry.
Traditional textile arts of India have influenced Western designs throughout the centuries.
1960s Indian influence in colour, design and style of western fashion.
The hippie movement used inexpensive cottons from India, cheesecloth and muslin in bright colours.
Early this century beautiful chintz fabrics were popular in soft furnishings.
End of 20th century India produced exotic colour, glitter, hand work and silk fabrics.
Influenced the worlds top fashion designers who increasing want authentic ethnic textile designs.
The most important influence on design is the sari or sari fabric that can be used on soft furnishings or garments.
Contemporary design is clearly influenced by Indian textiles.
In homeware stores there are colourful arrays of cushions embroidered with metal thread and highlighted with bead and mirrors.
Clothing has also been touched with features from Indian textiles, the use of sari silks, embroidered cloths and even the draping characteristics of saris.
Paisley Motif
The paisley motif originated in Kashmir India.
It is a fertility symbol based on the new shoot of a date palm.
The motif is most well known for its use in Kashmir shawls
The paisley motif was often used in Indian block printing
Genuine Kashmir shawls took 18 months to make from goat fleece.
The industrial revolution impacted on their production, from 1820-1860 thousands of shawls were produced.
The French copied the shawls and modified the design, making the paisley motif long,
It later became recognized as the liberty print and was used in home accessories.
The paisley pattern is still popular today.
The design has been copied throughout England.
Cotton and silk cloth, hand woven in all the different regions of India and often embroidered, or metal thread work, beads and even jewels are fundamental to everyday life in India. It is through the cut, colour, texture and brilliance of their garments that Indians establish their exact position in a society so diverse and fragmented by religion, ethnicity and caste. textiles production and design in India is unique. The predominant fibre are cotton and silk, decorated. Some key points are;
Traditional
Cottage based labour intensive
Textile in India carry meaning and messages
Each region has a distinctive style through the use of colour, embroider and decoration.
India is the seventh largest country in the world
India is an ancient culture with the traditional textile industry still being very important with exported goods sent all around the world.
Textiles have traditionally been an important part of the dowry of a bride
Wide range of climatic conditions.
The Islamic law forbids designs on clothing of any living creature so geometric designs are used instead. As there is an air of informality when praying in the temples dress is not formal just modest.
Indian people love colours which have different meanings and are usually used for protection against spirits, or beauty.
1) Orange - earth
2) Yellow - spring colour traditionally worn by Buddhist monks
3) Blue- the colour of God Krishna, associated with water
4) Green - holy colour of Hindu
5) Red- Traditional colour of marriage. Considered to be happy.
6) Circle- represents the sun, wheel or unity
FACTORS THAT INFLUENCE THE PRODUCTION AND NATURE OF TEXTILES
Geographic location
Climate conditions determine the type and quality of natural fibres grown. Land forms may isolate a culture from outside influences allowing for unique styles.
E.g Western dress is worn almost exclusively in cities and southern regions. The textile industry is the most important industry in India.
Available resources
Resources available within the culture, the fibre, yarn, fabrics, dyes, knowledge and skills of the textile workers.
E.g India trades large exports of raw materials
Tradition/customs
Tradition is a collective group of beliefs, customs and practices which a culture hands down over generations. In many cultures textiles is used in important events and ceremonies and is integral part of communicating beliefs and social messages.
E.g. Hindu lifestyle is governed by ancient beliefs and traditions. Dress and social behavior is prescribed by ancient law.
Technological development
The development of technology within a culture determines the quality, quantity and design of the textiles and textile products.
This can mean an increase in the availability of resources for the craftsperson
Improved production rates of the textiles, less expensive
Improved quality
Introduction of new materials, replacing traditional methods.
Conversely, technological development resulting in mass production can mean the decline in hand crafted textiles and loss of traditional textile skills. Textile production becomes more standardized and hand made items more appreciated and rare.
E.g. Traditional textiles industry is a hand process using intricate methods to produce textiles and clothing. Today textile technology has developed with India now producing products of high quality, with traditional methods. India has a cottage industry where clothing is manufactured by people in their homes. The government realises hand skills are being lost therefore they encourage traditional skills.
Religious practices
Variations in religious beliefs and practices between culture. Particular ceremonies may require the use of a specific type of cloth, adornment or clothing. In some culture wearing a particular design or colour may be taboo, forbidden.
E.g The influences of religion in India is strong and governs daily life including the way people dress, the food they eat, marriage and occupation. The major religions are Hindu, Muslin, Christian and Sikh
Workers skills and status
Skills are learned at an early age and passed onto the next generation. These skills and knowledge determine the nature and quality of the textile design
E.g The production of textiles used to be influenced by caste system, the workers were employed in specific areas of production dictated by the caste to which they belonged. Some industries were of higher status than others.
Communication
Isolated culture may have traditional textiles unchanged over long periods of time, Yet the increased speed of communication has exposed people to a variety of influences and new ideas.
E.g. Traditionally each caste passes on particular garment styles, designs, colours, techniques of dyeing, printing and embellishing from generation to next. Isolation and absence of industrialization has helped retain traditional styles reflecting cultural identity. Popular design or motif is the Paisley or buta ,meaning flower. It looks similar to a pear of teardrop. The motif was originally created by stamping the dye onto the cloth with the side of the fist.
NORTH WEST INDIA
Renowned for their wealth of traditional textiles
Predominately arid regions, has monsoon rains
Has slow moving river ideals for washing textiles after dying
People in these areas know for the vibrant colours and rich embroider of clothes, animal trappings. Most of their fabrics are hand block or screen printed.
17th Century Gujarat important commercial embroidery.
Marriage costume, wall hangings, quilts, cradle clothes are embroidered, appliques, decorated with beadwork and embellishment with mirrors, sequins, buttons and shells.
Isolation has meant this region has retained cultural identity.
Religious influences such as Hindu dress is strongly linked to caste system.
Textiles have traditionally been part of Dowry of a bride. She has intricate embroidered and appliqued textile items. The bride and groom have wedding costumes.
Distinctive embroidery is worn to identify caste, with each caste having prescribed colours, materials and stitched and these have remained unchanged for generations. Traditionally each caste passes on particular garment style, design, colours, technique of dyeing, printing and embellishing.
TEXTILE ART FORMS
Torans - door hangings made from cotton and embroidered with silk thread, small mirrors and chain stitch. Torans feature designs from nature and mythology.
Shawl - Made in Kashmir, made from fleece of mountain goat. The yarn is spun and woven then interlaced to form patterns. It is a slow intricate process which is labour intensive and expensive. The shawls have been copied in contemporary society (France and England) and are now made from merino wool and decorated with chain stitches.
Saris- all purpose garment that is both comfortable and elegant
TEXTILE TECHNIQUES
Block Printing - Large percentage of Indian textiles are block printed. Today block printing has found a niche market in rural communities. Ajarakh - geometric design printed on both sides of cloth in indigo blue.
Shisha -or embroidery with mirrors is a classic Indian textile art form
Beadwork - embellishment introduced from Africa. Beads were used as a replacement for embroidery. Patterns for beading were intricate incorporating motifs from nature and reds, oranges and greens. The beading is done from the corner of the design.
Applique - known as katab originated from Europe. Applique was used by the landlord, farming and merchant castes. The landlord designs were predominantly dramatic animals and human figure. The merchants did stylized birds and elephants in red and whites.
Mochi embroidery- Embroidery carried out on satin fabric with fine silk thread using chain stitch formed with an ari. The silk is imported from Europe or China. This embroidery is used on skirt panels, saris, torans. The motifs for embroidery are stylized flowers.
Tie dying - Produced by men (who dye the fabric) and women (who tie the cloth at home). The fabric is thin cotton or silk pinched up and tied in small circular pattern and dyed.
CONTEMPORARY DESIGN INFLUENCES
Today in India vast quantities of embroidery work in homes has gone, except in rural areas. Now young women spend their time getting educated rather than doing embroidery like their grandmothers. Modern technology and the availability of western clothes has taken place over traditional work. Decline in embroidery done in homes due to changes in beliefs and caste systems. Foreign trade in textiles has experienced changes. Europe has influences Indian shawls. The effects of technology on hand work industry has caused a decline. Yet the government encourages to develop and improve the industry.
Traditional textile arts of India have influenced Western designs throughout the centuries.
1960s Indian influence in colour, design and style of western fashion.
The hippie movement used inexpensive cottons from India, cheesecloth and muslin in bright colours.
Early this century beautiful chintz fabrics were popular in soft furnishings.
End of 20th century India produced exotic colour, glitter, hand work and silk fabrics.
Influenced the worlds top fashion designers who increasing want authentic ethnic textile designs.
The most important influence on design is the sari or sari fabric that can be used on soft furnishings or garments.
Contemporary design is clearly influenced by Indian textiles.
In homeware stores there are colourful arrays of cushions embroidered with metal thread and highlighted with bead and mirrors.
Clothing has also been touched with features from Indian textiles, the use of sari silks, embroidered cloths and even the draping characteristics of saris.
Paisley Motif
The paisley motif originated in Kashmir India.
It is a fertility symbol based on the new shoot of a date palm.
The motif is most well known for its use in Kashmir shawls
The paisley motif was often used in Indian block printing
Genuine Kashmir shawls took 18 months to make from goat fleece.
The industrial revolution impacted on their production, from 1820-1860 thousands of shawls were produced.
The French copied the shawls and modified the design, making the paisley motif long,
It later became recognized as the liberty print and was used in home accessories.
The paisley pattern is still popular today.
The design has been copied throughout England.
