innovations in decorative techniques & NO advice line (1 Viewer)

[karini]

hey all, which innovations have you guys learnt about? can you please list them here?

i'll start:

- Direct Digital Printing




actually, im more curious - is Sublistatic (heat transfer) printing part of this area of study, or is it part of Design??

AND. who else is frustrated that there is no advice line for textiles! this there are so few subjects being 'advised'! the advice line was useful only for 2/6 subjects - english and maths, and i only used it for english.

 

[dramaqueen72]

Fibre Innovation.

1) MICROFIBRE

Identify ONE fibre innovation that has enhanced textile performance.

A microfibre is a microfilament with a fineness of less than 1 denier. Microfibres provide softer man-made fibres which give softer knitted fibres and softer fabrics for apparel. They are also water repelling which decreases the need of impervious synthetic resin coatings or laminates.
Explain how this innovation you described affects society and the environment.
Microfibres are extremely beneficial for society:
-Great for consumers as they give the fabric a ‘sueded appearance’ and soften the fabric which is desirable property = pleasant feel to skin.
-Suitable for travel as lightweight and resilient. Important for businessmen who need their apparel to be wrinkle resistant, durable and comfortable.
-Fabric looks like fine wool but it easier to care for and has excellent drape. Due to its fineness, they provide the wearer with greater coverage and are more wind resistant = keeps wearer warmer.
-Fabrics dry quickly and can be gentle machine washed- important if worn often.
-Microfibre fabrics can come in a variety of colours which can express individualism to the consumer and can be combined with a range of finishing techniques such as anti-bacterial, UV block.
-To the green conscious customer microfibres does not depend on natural fibres for its existence.
The disadvantage to consumer:
-It is fairly expensive to purchase and may not be as absorbent or comfortable compared to natural fibres.
-To green customer- creates pollution.
The advantage to the manufacturer:
-Allows them quality control. Can be woven tightly to prevent penetration by wind, rain or cold. If used in weft yarn- produce heavy weight fabrics, if used in the warp yarn- lightweight fabrics.
-Have the choice to combine microfibres with regenerated yarns and natural fibres for their intended purpose of their products.
-Have the choice to put on a range of finishing techniques such as anti-bacterial to better their products. This in effect will make them more competitive on the market and more likely to be successful.
Microfibre production is not very beneficial for the environment:
-Factories that produce the fabrics and transportation vehicles create air pollution which adds to pollution of environment = CO2 released into atmosphere contributes to ‘green house effect’ which ultimately leads to global warming, heating the earth and destroying habitat and natural resources.
-Polluting run off ends in river systems = kill aquatic life and effect other ecosystems.
-Noise pollution of production and transporting goods = may effect wildlife in habitats and the surrounding residential areas.
Positive factors:
-Not depend on natural resources for its existence such as wool, which is important in AUS at moment due to the drought.

Yarn Innovation:​

1) COLANA
Identify ONE yarn innovation that has enhanced textile performance.
Colana is a Transeasonal yarn of superior handle and performance. It combines the comfort of combed cotton (70%) with the warmth and resilience of fine merino wool. (30%) The mix is achieved in the blending of fibres.
Benefits:
-Outstanding softness
-Can be machine wash/ Tumble dried. Easy to care for. Shrink resistant wool for total easy care.
-All natural fibres, it breathes, absorbent and comfortable.
-Wool provides resilience, retains shape and drapes well.
-It is warm without prickle. Suitable for sensitive skin, less than 20 micron wool fibres.
-Low pill
-Transeasonal warmth, warmth in winter, coolness in summer.
-Extremely versatile- available in various counts, natural and yarn dyed. It is suitable for both knitted and woven fabrics and offers superior comfort. Eg women’s wear
-All Australian 100%.

Fabric Innovation:​

1) SPORTSWOOL PRO
WHAT IS IT?
-Unique product that offers a new concept in comfort for performance conscience athletes. The pay-off for consumers is a garment that is comfortable before exercise, maximises sweat transport and comfort during exercise and is warm after exercise has finished.
-Is a lightweight, two-layer composite fabric
-Next to the skin is a layer of Merino wool with an outer layer of a tough, easy care man made fibre.
-This combination has been created to wick sweat away from the skin and control humidity change in the skin microclimate.
WHAT IS THE INNOVATION? EXPLAIN IN DEPTH.
Sweat

-it is unique as the fabric transfers the perspiration on the skin from the inside of the fabrics surface to the external outside surface. The sweat attracting properties of the outside face are maximised by a special finishing process to ensure that sweat spreads out over the greatest possible area for maximum evaporation and efficient body cooling
Humidity.
-the ability of the hygroscopic wool inner face to respond to changes in humidity in the clothing microclimate makes it unique. (The athlete will not experience a change in humidity in the air next to the skin, unlike other sporting garments)
-Reduces the initial rate of rise of humidity relative to a fabric with synthetic fibre against the skin by around 30%.
-Reduces the level of discomfort.
Post exercise chill

-Reduces the opportunity of post exercise chill.
-With normal fabrics- sweat transporting through fabrics creates liquid bridges between the skin and the outer face of the garment. These bridges form a direct path for the rapid conduction of heat from the skin to the surrounding air and the high level of heat loss can continue long enough after exercise for chilling to occur.
-With Sportswool Pro with it’s ‘wicking’ ability sweat migrates to outside quickly, slowing the rate of heat loss.
WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES?
-An exceptionally powerful wicking behaviour
-Humidity control in the clothing microclimate
-The wool layer on the inside face of Sportswool Pro also helps control post exercise chill by reducing fabric cling.
WHAT IS WOOL’S NATURAL BENEFITS?
-Naturally hydrophobic, yet is capable of holding 30% of mass in vapour.
-The oxygen atoms of wool attract the hydrogen atoms, which allows the fibre to pull water vapour into the fabric- therefore wool speeds up the heat transfer process. This means muscles will be cooler and can work at a higher level without negatively effecting the bodies’ temperature requirement.
-Wool can be machine-wash treated so it can be easily washed and tumble dried.
-After a 30 minute exercise program the weight of the sweat uptake of the wool is 10% more than it’s dry weight, unlike other fabrics which are 80-100% heavier than their dry weight. As wool is 50% of Sportswool Pro the weight is 5%.
-As it is wool it offers some thermal protection and more vapour than sweat escapes. It doesn’t matter if it is raining-still effective.
WHAT ARE THE USES FOR SPORTWOOL PRO?
-Used in sport clothing eg) Australian cricket team, Pat Farmer the AUS marathon runner, ‘Boomers’ AUS basketball team
WHAT ARE THE PERFORMANCE BENEFITS?
-Vapour management- makes wearer feel cooler quicker and reduces the tendency of vapour to condense into liquid sweat.
-Drier to touch garments that feels less ‘clammy’ to skin during activity.
-Natural elasticity
-Natural UV protection
-Natural micro-climate system that reduces post exercise chill and lets garment breathe naturally.
Explain how it effects society and the environment

The innovation greatly benefits the consumers of athletic gear. They have the ability to keep cool and dry in close fitting training garments. The feel ‘less clammy’ to the skin as wool is hydrophobic and the micro-climate system reduces ‘post exercise chill.’ The garments are quick drying and require no ironing making them easy to care for. They have natural elasticity to fit athletic body types and natural UV protection from the sun, thus ensuring the skin is protected during wear. The cost for consumers is affordable so most incomes can afford it. However, as it is close fitting it is more appropriate with an athletic body shape.
In regards to the manufacturers, they have expanded the market for sports fabrics, which can cater for different size ranges. The cotton manufacturers are losing the market share of athletic apparel.
In regards to the employees, the manufacturing processes require careful construction, which is not difficult to follow. The easy care of the innovation reduces the need for long wash cycles and ironing.
The environment is negatively effected as the pollution and the increased use of petrochemical products is bad for environment. They are non-renewable.
2) FASTSKIN
Speedo has developed the Fastskin, based on the hydrodynamic properties of sharkskin. Modelled the Fastskin on attributes found in nature.
In depth explanation:
-Fastskin- made from hydrophobic material which repels water and covers the whole body.
-It is designed to reduce drag by channelling the water along the grooves of the fabric.
-Surface characteristics mimics the rough shark denticles to reduce drag along key areas of the body
-The fabric compresses the body to stop skin vibration and muscle oscillation to save energy and reduce drag,
-it is slicker and lighter than a suit that absorbs water.
-It is custom designed for peak performance by being created to fit the exact body shape. This is done by a body scan with a 3D recreation onto computer. -Fastskin contains a higher content of elastane than traditional swimwear fabric, providing greater stretch characteristics. Through compressing the muscles, super-stretch fabric can reduce muscle and skin vibration, which is energy efficient and increases productivity from muscles.
-Superstretch seams- number of stitches is higher (26 stitches for every 3cm of seaming) This allows the fabric to be stretched to its max tension without breaking, allowing complete freedom of movement, comfort and elasticity needed. Direction of the seams is designed to follow the water flow to minimise drag.
-Gripper- due to concern of loss ‘of the feel of the water’ along inner forearm this was created. The gripper fabric is placed on the inner forearm to increase the simmers ‘grip’ for the water due to the greater friction.
-No increase in body heat.

Machinery Innovation​

1) (DPP) DIRECT DIGITAL PRINTING
An image can be viewed on a computer screen (and sourced from photographs or scanned art work). This means that the industry can supply a unique service to the consumer and deliver ‘originals’ that previously would have been far too expensive to produce…both in time and financially.
The benefits the industry is able to pass on to the consumer are reduced production costs, reduced research time, short run applications, sample length for consumer evaluation, customer designs. As well as this DPP can be applied to a huge range of natural fibres as well as viscose rayon. Polyester can also be used using disperse dyes and sublimation.
For the industry, there is no longer a necessity to carry stock as printing can be carried out on demand. There are no start up costs involved and no need for colour separations. However, if the consumer does supply a particular artwork the image needs to be 254 DPI.
Consumer taste and design fashion is continually changing, even from season to season. This gives the industry a much better approach and ability to respond to consumer demands without huge costs.
2) (CAD) COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN EG FORMARIS BY LECTRA
This is one example of a cad software program developed by lectra. This program simplifies the production process for many garment manufacturers. Patterns can be digitised by the designer to a precise display screen. It also allows the designer to create patterns directly on screen by manipulating new pieces from existing ones. If one component of, for example a seat cover is modified all other pattern pieces or components are updated. The cost saving of this process benefits the manufacturer immensely.
Formaris cad can be incorporated into the automatic cutting process guaranteeing significant time saving and impeccable cutting quality.

Finishes​

Fabric finishes are wet or dry treatments that complete a textile. They offer a wide range of opportunities to create unique designs through custom colours, textures, and performance. The processes are done to fibres, yarns, or fabrics and are done either before or after weaving or knitting. Some finishes are applied wet, some dry, some are cold, and some even heated treatments. Sometimes, combinations of various methods are used to complete the finish to get the desired affect
Finishes can be classified as:
- Basic finishes; applied to most all fabrics to
improve their appearance. Eg scouring, bleaching finishes.
- Special finishes; applied with a specific purpose for which it is to be used. Eg Anti-static, Mercerisation finishes.
1) TEFLON
Identify an anti-bacterial or soil resistant finish and describe how it is applied.
Teflon is a flurochemical, soil resistant finish that forms an invisible shield around each fibre to protect the fabric against stains. The finish is applied at the last step of the textile mill usually via the pad process. This means that the fabric is immersed in a water bath containing Teflon. The excess is squeezed out then the fabric travels through an oven to dry and cure. The water evaporates, the Teflon polymers melt and spread. The fluorocarbon side chains are oriented away from the surface.
Name the most suitable fabric for this finish. Explain how this finish has improved the performance of the fabric.
There is no one most suitable fabric as this finish can be applied to wool, cotton, linen, heavy wovens and blends. The treated fabric stays cleaner longer without losing its soft touch or bright colours. Teflon protects against accumulated stains and spills that are common to everyday life. Spills sit on top and can be easily blotted up with a paper towel or soil brushed away.
Evaluate the impact of this finishing process on both the manufacturer and consumer.
Manufacturer- It is compatible with other finishing agents such as softeners or wrinkle free additives. There is no additional capital outlay for expensive equipment is not needed.
Consumer- Durable finish that can be washed repeatedly with no dry cleaning costs. Treated fabric stays cleaner longer but remains soft. Resistant to both oil and water. Where other stain resistant finishes may be surface only, Teflon works at a molecular level.
2) MICROBAN
Identify an anti-bacterial or soil resistant finish and describe how it is applied.
Microban is a finishing technique that provides antimicrobial protection. Microban is added to the products during manufacturing to provide continuous protection. The antimicrobial works as a cell wall penetrant, disrupting key cell functions so that the microorganism is unable to grow or function.
Name the most suitable fabric for this finish. Explain how this finish has improved the performance of the fabric.
It is suitable for application to natural fibres, particularly cotton. It can be used with polyester during the production of the fibre (before passes through spinneret) The benefits include continuos, durable and effective antimicrobial protection. It prevents odours, mould and mildew from growing and reproducing. If applied at fibre stage- long-term effect, if applied at fabric- temporary. Prevent infection and illness.
Evaluate the impact of this finishing process on both the manufacturer and consumer.
Consumer- for those with delicate skins (babies/ young kids) and if used in conjunction with natural fibres the benefits can be the minimisation of irritation. Chitosan is an example of this- it has improved performance by acceleration of wound healing by up to 75%, promotes skin healing and regeneration of skin cells, ideal for those with skin allergies and conditions such as eczema. It is durable and long lasting.
2) PROBAN
PROBAN® is the leading flame retardant treatment for cotton and other cellulosic fibres. The PROBAN® system imparts durable flame retardant properties to cotton by producing an invisible polymer containing phosphorus and nitrogen, inside the cotton fibres. When flame comes into contact with PROBAN® treated cotton, an insulating char is formed with no melting, smouldering or after glow. PROBAN® cotton retains all the essential comfort factors of untreated cotton such as air permeability and moisture transmission. PROBAN® treated fabrics do not build up static electricity. Knitted PROBAN® Cotton is the wearer friendly fabric and the best in flame retardant systems for cellulosic fibres. PROBAN® flame retardant properties will not be diminished for the wearer life of the garment provided the correct care instructions are followed.

Decorative Technique Innovation:​

1) DIGITAL PRINTING (INK JET TECHNOLOGY)
Digital printing refers to the process of printing dyes directly onto fabrics. Any image realised on a computer screen whether originated by CAD, digital camera or scanned photograph can be printed onto virtually any fabric that doesn’t leave lint that might clog the print heads. Used for short samples, banners, photo expeditions. Two methods used for stabilising and feeding fabric- paper backing, feed and take up system. Pre-treated coating recommended. Can withstand environmental pressures such as pollution, intense heat, sunlight, washing. This means that the industry can supply a unique service to the consumer and deliver ‘originals’ that previously would have been far too expensive to produce…both in time and financially. The benefits the industry is able to pass on to the consumer are reduced production costs, reduced research time, short run applications, sample length for consumer evaluation, customer designs.

hope this helps

 

[LunaB]

Do you teach Textiles? Do you have any updated resources?
This is amazing, thanks for posting!